September 2016

Hi all Sue here

Who?? I hear you ask!!! Sorry we have been very remiss with our Blog. I honestly thought we had posted an update before we went into the Marina for winter but apparantley not. So here it is and I will try to keep it short and not bore you all too much

September we went down to Crete to meet up with my sister and walk the Samaria Gorge and visit Chania. It was a very challenging hike but well worth the effort. Chania ia also a very beautiful place to visit.

Chania	Samaria Gorge

Lovely ladies in Chania	The intrepid 3!!

We spent 2 weeks at anchor in Elounda while Caroline was out staying and after our gorge hike we were inspired to do a few more around Elounda. We also rewarded ourselves afterwards with some nice refreshing G&Ts!!

It was then time to sail down to Finike where we were due to be lifted out begining of October. We went via Kasos, Rhodes and Kastellerizon but all very brief stops as we were on a mission!! When we got to Finike I was reunited with my favourite Marina dogs who all seemed to remember me.

Tripod & Carpet	Patchy

 

From Finike I flew home for a visit but I went a week earlier than planned so it was a surprise for my daughter and grandaughter. For once my daughter was lost for words!!

Vikki lost for words!!	A very surprised Courtney

I had a lovely month with family and friends and even managed a quick visit to Copenhagen to visit my dear friend Lis. Can’t believe how many social events I attended but I know Chris was watching the bank balance depleting rapidly!! It was really great catching up with everyone and as always I was made to feel very welcome. Thank you all.

Fun at the Tivoli Gardens	A visit to Santas Grotto at Hawkston Park

Vikki’s 30th Birthday	Girls lunching in the Townhouse

July/August

Hi all Sue here

This has been a strange summer for us as we have been sailing mainly in the company of family or friends on other yachts and have mostly been revisiting islands that we have been to before. So this blog might cover a lot of old ground!!

Following my return from the UK we spent a day in Athens doing all the sightseeing things.Glad we managed to fit it in as it is probably the last time we will be up this way.

Fun day around the Acropolis	Taxi!!

Karistos was our first stop after Athens and we spent some time exploring the island, Caroline and me went on a ladies hike and Chris and Richard went off on their boys hike.

Spot the Dragonfly	Church on Top Of Mount Ohi

Rich and Chris took advantage of the Islands and did some wonderful hikes around the landscapes. We started on Evia with a hike to the top of Mount Ohi at 1400m high, we took a taxi to about 1000m up and walked to the summit before walking all the way down to the harbour at Karystos. A pretty strenuous 15km in total but some stunning views from the top since we were lucky enough to have clear skies up there.

After that we walked around the hills behind Sand Bar Bay on Kithnos, only about 8km this time but plenty to see with an opportunity to see some old farmhouses in some remote locations with barely a donkey track to them.

On Sifnos we tried following a marked trail but ended up near a locked gate with an old woman across the valley making it very clear that she did not want us walking on her land!! Most unusual for the Islands since the locals are invariably friendly and welcoming. We detoured around her land up to the White Tower and then back through some old iron ore workings with many abandoned conveyors and machinery.

Serifos is another great Island for hiking with many properly marked trails through some beautiful countryside. We managed three walks with the last one from Fikadhia Bay to Platis Gialos, Vathy and back being the best with a great track from the top of Vathy back down to Fikadhia.

We love Kithnos but it can be very windy and it definitely was this time around. I will let Chris explain just how windy in sailing talk but it was like being on a big dipper in my opinion!! We were aiming go into Loutra but changed our minds when we saw how dangerous it would have been to stay. Still very beautiful and we actually went to a part we hadn’t stopped at before, Stefanos.

Stefanos, Kithnos	Spooky, little church in bay of Stefanos lit up at night

We made a brief stop at Serifos where we sent Caroline and Richard on a hike up to the Chora, we have done this twice and didn’t feel the need to hike up there again, well we told them it was too windy for us all to leave the boat unattended!!

They made it!!	Old Conveyors, Sifnos

Sifnos is one of our favourite islands and we never tire of exploring it. Caroline and me did go on a little adventure on the local buses around the island one day, it’s so easy to get around and all the buses are air conditioned. The anchorage of Fikiadha is well worth a visit, the snorkelling there is really good and you actually get to see a lot of different fish and even an odd octopus. The beach here is a nudist be beach so be warned.

Ormos Vathi, Sifnos	Capital of Sifnos, Apollonia

Milos was a very busy and touristy island, good place to catch a ferry from though and this is where we dropped Caroline and Richard off after their 3 week stay to go to Athens to catch their flight.

Great holiday once again	Fikadhia Bay, Serifos

Then it was off to Kimolos to sit out some more Meltemi Winds, a very lovely place to do it in though and the walk up to the village is a must. Considering how small an island it is the various ferries are in and out all day, ranging from the local one to the fast cat.

The weather in the Aegean is dominated by the Northerly Meltemi wind in the summer and this year has been no exception with 4 or 5 days of strong winds followed by a couple of days of calm before it all repeats again. At times we have been out sailing in 25 – 30 knt winds and some pretty big seas but we are generally going downwind so it is not as bad as it might be. Definitely not so nice for some of the charter boats who make their way south in fairly good conditions before they realise they have to get back North into 30knts of wind and 2 or 3m seas!!

The forecasts have been fairly good through the summer but they do occasionally get it badly wrong. In the last few weeks we have had forecasts of 10-15 knt winds only to end up with nearer 30knts on 3 or 4 occasions so we always have to be ready for some strong winds. Mostly the big winds are around the corners of the Islands and we know to be wary in those areas, however just a couple of days ago we had over 30knts for most of the 16 mile trip from Schinousa to Amorgos when we expected only about 15knts.

Amazing Art gallery in Kimolos	Kimolos

Eventually we managed to escape to some beautiful anchorages around Poliagaios. We have never seen water so turquoise and clear. just a shame about all the tripper boats who want to anchor on top of you but they usually only stay an hour or so. The highlight though was watching the Eleonora Falcons which were nesting high up on the rocks behind us. The noise they made was quite piecring when they approached their nests. They are an endangered species and I’m very sorry my photos don’t do any justice to them!!

Anchorages with turquoise waters around Poliagaios	Eleonora Falcons breeding on high rocks around Poliagaios

After a few days it was back to Kimolos to sit out the Meltemi again and we met up with some lovely people off a Princess Power boat, Kenny, Liz and their daughter Lucy. We spent a great week together eating, drinking and exploring. Although Liz wasn’t too impressed when I took her shopping up to the Chora and got us lost on the way back down. We ended up coming down a recently made path down the side of a mountain which wouldn’t have been so bad if we hadn’t been laden down with shopping and wearing flip flops!! Another day we took the ferry to Milos and hired a car to go around the island, it turned into a bit of a fiasco but it all added to the experience!! Don’t think we need to do Milos again.

A week later we once again managed to escape and headed to Serifos where we were meeting up with Charlie and Susannah off Purr again. This time we did do another hike up to the Chora. Susannah reckons being with Nimrod is like being at boot camp, we kill them partying then make them do a hike in the heat!! No staying power!!

The Chora at Serifos	Chris and his new friend!!

Next stop Syros. We were now with 2 other boats as well, Norna Byron and Mistral so the parties were getting more frequent!! Oh my poor liver. Once again we took to the buses to explore the island and had some great days out.

Early morning sail to Syros	The Capital of Syros

Onwards to Rinia a gem of a place. Just across from Mykonos but a different world. Crystal clear waters and a tranquil anchorage. You do get the tripper boats during the day but once evening comes all is calm unless that is 4 boats decide to have a BBQ on the beach!! We were very well behaved though.

BBQ on beach at Rinia	Full moon over Purr

We went across in the Dinghy from Rinia to the ruins of Dellos. Well worth a visit and a really good museum there. Chris made lots of new friends again when he sat down to eat his Tuna Sandwich!! 

The cats of Dellos	Mosaics at Delos

We parted company with Norna Byron and Mistral and now crossed to Paros and Anti Paros along with Purr . We would liked to have spent longer around these islands but time and wind were against us so we had to keep going. Purr left us here to make their way back to Athens to catch flights. Once again we had a great 3 weeks sailing and socialising with Charlie and Susannah but definitely needed a detox afterwards!!

Back to Sifnos we must go!! Planned to meet up again with our friends Kenny, Liz and Lucy and ended up getting stuck once more for a week with them!! Good job we all get on so well. So back to the buses it was, well for the girls it was as the men chose to stay on the boats drinking tea and putting the world to rights!! We had some lovely girly shopping days and lunches out and I didn’t get us lost this time.

Now we are back for one night on Anti Paros and then on to Amorgos the next day. Here we will wait for right weather to go to Anafi and hopefully then on to Crete next Monday or Tuesday where my sister is joining us for 10 days. Next blog you will hear all about our Samaria Gorge walk.

June

Hi all Sue here

Well we eventually left Symi on the 21st June after our unexpected delay. The Radar arrived and is now installed and fully functional again. Although we hadn’t planned it we thoroughly enjoyed our time on Symi and did some really nice hikes around the island. We also met up with Terry & Julie who we had met over the winter and enjoyed some BBQs and Mexican Train games.

Erimopoulis Bay, Symi	Shady Churchyard above Symi Town

 

The windmills above Symi Town	Pedhi Bay

Nisiros was our next stop, another return visit to one of our favourite islands. We sailed there along with Terry & Julie. It was quite a lively sail again and we had a few problems getting anchored and tied back due to the big gusts. It’s always nice when you do get safely in, you can then breath a sigh of relief and sit back and watch the other boats coming in!! Dave and Shirley off Jaxon arrived the following day so of course we had to have a BBQ and Bubbles to catch up. We hired bikes again to tour the island and see how it had changed in 3 years. Some parts of the Volcano have been fenced off now and I imagine if we were to return in another 3 years the fenced off area will have expanded. Such an amazing place to visit. When we returned to the boat we had new neighbors or should I say old, It was our friends Rod & Sandra off SY Barola who we first met in Lagos in 2011. This is how cruising life works.

Around Nisiros	Volcano at Nisiros

Natural Sauna in the Rocks	Volcano Crater, Nisiros

 

Impressive Brickwork, Paleokastro, Nisiros	Back Streets of Mandraki, Nisiros

Wednesday the 25th May we sailed across to Kefalos (Kamares), Kos with Dave & Shirley off Jackson. It was a bit lumpy, just for a change!!, but at least it was only 10 miles. We went out to eat that night as it was Dave’s Birthday. The restaurant we chose was called Aphrodite and it is one of the best places we have eaten at. Michael and his wife made us feel very welcome and the food was excellent, they also have a floating pontoon in place now where you can tie your dinghy up. There was an elderly gentleman their called John who has been coming to Kamares on Kos for years and always eats at Aphrodite. We really enjoyed chatting to him and telling each other about our lives. This is one of the reasons cruising life is so special, you get to meet such lovely and interesting people. It was so good we went back the next evening and that is unheard for us!!.

Daves Birthday meal at Aphrodite	Jackson leaving Nisiros

Friday 27th May found us on our way to Astapalia, an early start as once again the wind was due to pick up in the afternoon. But hey ho it was already windy at 06.30am and we had a lively and lumpy 6 hour sail. Don’t know what is going on with May this year but at least we are sailing instead of motoring, albeit a tad too breezy at times!!

Astipalia	First catch of the year, a 3 kilo Tuna

Monday 30th May was an early start to go to Amorgos, here we had arranged to meet up with friends, Mark & Cathy. It was a long day and for the first time this year we had to motor sail all the way.  Chris managed to hook a 3 kilo Tuna, first catch of the summer but a much bigger one escaped. Never mind 3 kilos was plenty for a BBQ. We anchored in a beautiful tranquil bay and went for sundowners on Mark & Cathys boat. Then at around 6pm the wind started picking up and the tranquil bay was tranquil no more!!With rocks behind us and the wind showing no sign of dying down it was decided to re anchor across the other side while we still had some light to do it in. Eventually the BBQ continued on Nimrod around 9.30pm and we gave the Tuna a lovely send off!! This is the bit of sailing I don’t like, the forecast that isn’t forecast!!

Monastery built into the rocks on Amorgos	Brief trip ashore on Naousa, Paros

Wednesday 1st June we crossed to Skhinousa where we anchored for one night before heading to Naousa on Paros. We have visited both these islands before and they are just hops on our passage towards Athens this time round but we will revisit them later in the year. Next stop Rinia. We were meant to just stay overnight in Rinia but it was so beautiful we stayed for 2 nights. You do get the odd trip boat coming in during the day but they don’t stay long thank goodness!! There are some ruins ashore but little else apart from a couple of smallholdings. A very peacful place in sharp contrast to Mykonos across the bay!!

Beautiful Anchorage after the Trippers Leave, Rinea	Ford 4000, circa mid 70’s – It Probably Still Runs

 

Rinia with Mykonos across the bay	Company on way to Karystos

Sunday 5th June and we are on our way to Andros. We only spent one night at anchor here but it is meant to be a really nice island, unfortunately we weren’t on the nice side and it all looked very bland. It was very busy with large Ferries coming in, at least 5 came and went on the evening we were there.

Monday 6th June we sailed to Karystos to hide for a few days as there were some strong winds forecast. Had a lot of company on the way and all a lot larger than us!! We have visited here a few times. Once again we met some really nice people and had drinks with them a couple of evenings. We left Karistos town on Friday and did a quick sail across to Porto Rafina to do a big Lidl shop. As all cruisers will tell you when there is a chance of going to Lidl you do it!!

Karystos	Picaso’s House

We are now going to anchor around a group of islands called Nisidhes Petaloi until we have to cross to Porto Rafti around June 15th for me to fly back to the UK for a week. It is a lovely place to spend some time. Saturday night we were anchored outside Picasos house and just a bit further down is Nisis Tragos that is a strictly private island with a very large villa on which even has it’s own little harbour!!

Nisis Tragos	Nisis Tragos

After a few quiet days around these islands it is time for us to head to Porto Rafti for my flight back to UK. It will be a full on week as usual but I love catching up with family and friends. Then my sister and her husband will fly back with me for 3 weeks. So the next blog will be full of our adventures.

Chris’s Turn Now!!

Well after Sue has told you all about the Islands there isn’t all that much left for me. After our lively, windy start to the summer between Crete and Symi it seems that normal service has been resumed with the wind either being in the wrong direction or non-existent. So since we left Symi it has been mainly motoring or motor sailing apart from a quick downwind trip from Kos to Nisiros with 20 – 25 knts of wind. Fortunately the wind had only just started so the sea was fairly flat and we had a good trip, although trying to tie stern to in Nisiros harbour with 25knts blowing us sideways was a bit hairy. The sea state got much worse as the day progressed and we were glad to be safely in port, apparently the other harbour at Mandraki was too dangerous for even the ferries to use it. We had the usual entertainment later in the day with some yachts making a complete mess of berthing and tangling with other anchor chains and bows – they missed us thankfully. Although a couple of days later in pretty benign conditions our next door neighbour decided to pull our anchor up as she was leaving by getting their rudder snagged on our chain – we were away on our scooters so Dave from Jaxon and a German skipper reset our anchor with no harm done.

So far it seems very quiet around the Islands with only Amorgos, of all the Islands we have visited, being fairly full with yachts. Not very promising for the Greek Tourism Industry although Turkey is almost devoid of tourists and yachts so much worse over there.

After our radar problems in Symi Nimrod has been very well behaved so I braved the water to give the hulls a good clean and scrub for the first time since we left Crete, we are now much quicker through the water with our clean hulls and shiny props. The only problem we have at the moment is the fact that every time we get any rain it seems to come loaded with dust from N Africa so we end up with a very dirty boat and another cleaning job to do ready for our visitors in a weeks time.