Since our last blog update we have covered nearly 600nm through the Southern Central Med Area, from Corsica to Sardinia then Tunisia and Pantelleria before arriving in Sicily. Some pretty mixed weather along the way with winds over 40knts at times and a fair amount of motor sailing also.
We left the lovely sheltered anchorage at Rondinara, Corsica after the winds and seas had died down with the intention of visiting the Corsican Island of Lavezzi but when we got there the main anchorage was completely full and the other couple of possible anchorages were too rough to be any use. After a quick chat with Awake we decided to carry on south back to Porto Pozzo, Sardinia.
We met up with Jenny and Tito again, this time with Jenny’s mum Joan, sister Alice and friends Mark and Julia all staying with them so we had a lovely few days with them all including a day out on Nimrod for them all. A bit of a challenge getting Nimrod to the pontoon, we were literally sliding through the mud, and another challenge getting Joan aboard, but everything went smoothly and we had a lovely day out.
Many thanks to everyone for including us in your plans as well as some lovely food from Tito’s kitchen and some lovely meals at local restaurants.
Sunset In Porto Pozzo | Sailing Through the Maddalenas |
We decided we needed to start making some progress south towards Sicily where we plan to spend the winter. The forecast was fairly calm for the next couple of days before picking up from the NW that we hoped would send us down the East coast of Sardinia. Our first stop after leaving Porto Pozzo and sailing through the islands of the Maddalenas was Porto Chervo, reputedly one of the most expensive harbours in the Med, fortunately it is still possible to anchor for free and admire the superyachts from afar. There was the Rolex / Swan Yachts Regatta taking place also so there was an influx of luxurious Swan sailing yachts to add to the glitz and glamour. We watched Dilbar coming in to her berth, she is 100m long and is owned by a Russian Industrialist and is the 22nd largest privately owned yacht in the world, very impressive.
Dilbar in Porto Chervo, only 100m !! | Calm Anchorage, Brandinchi |
From the excesses of Porto Chervo we had a gentle motor around the corner to the beautiful bay of Brandinchi with only a few small RIB’s for company in the crystal clear waters. You can see our anchor chain lying on the sand in 5m of water.
The next couple of days we had strong winds forecast from the NW that we hoped would get us down to the SE corner of Sardinia fairly quickly. The first day the wind was more SW and W blowing up to 40knts so we had a pretty boisterous 50nm day down to Arbatax, where we anchored in the sheltered bay of Porto Frailis. Next day the wind was nearer the NW that was forecast so we had a more comfortable day with the wind off the starboard quarter and following seas to send us on our way to Cape Carbonara. The wind died for the last 10nm, contrary to the forecast until we rounded the Cape to head towards Vilasimus when it decided to blow again at over 35knts on the nose!! We changed our plan and headed for the shelter of Point Molentis a couple of miles away but offering much better shelter.
Anchor Chain in 5m of Water | Hitch-hiker En-route to Tunisia |
We had a bit of a rest for a couple of days until the forecast looked good for us to make the crossing to Kelibia, Tunisia. The only reason for heading to Tunisia was to fill up with diesel, we can take over 800ltrs if we use all our spare containers as well as the fuel tanks and the 58 euro cents price meant a saving of well over 1000 euros compared to Italian prices. The 160nm crossing to Tunisia took us 30hrs with the light winds meaning we motorsailed most of the way.
The harbour at Kelibia is a very busy fishing port with little room for yachts and we were rafted alongside a French trimaran who were very friendly and helpful. Customs and Police procedures are long winded with officials asking for money and alcohol, but we politely declined and the officials finished their jobs. Everyone else we met in Tunisia was helpful and friendly especially the man on the diesel pump. It is obviously a very poor country but it is also very dirty with rubbish strewn everywhere and the harbour waters covered in a film of oil.
We only stayed one night that cost the huge sum of 4 euros before motorsailing the 50nm to the Italian Island of Pantelleria to anchor in the outer harbour. We planned to spend a couple of days around the island but the anchorages we tried were all fairly deep with rocky bottoms and a high likelihood of getting our anchor or chain jammed amongst the rocks. In the end the forecast looked fairly promising so we set off for the 150nm crossing to the SE corner of Sicily at about 1900hrs. Most of the crossing was fairly comfortable with light wind and sea behind us meaning more motorsailing overnight until the wind picked up the next morning and we sailed most of the rest of the way to Porto Palo with some frantic reductions of sail for the last couple of hours as the wind picked up to nearly 40knts again!!
Kelibia Harbour, Tunisia | Siracusa Street Market |
From Porto Palo we headed up the East coast 30nm to the delightful anchorage and harbour of Siracusa where we have been for a week. I will let Sue tell you all about it.
Park Area, Grand Harbour, Siracusa | Roman Ruins and Town Centre |
Hi all Sue here
Like Chris said we have covered a lot of miles since the last blog and definitely some boisterous ones!!
We had a really lovely time back in Porto Pozzo with Jenny, Tito, family and friends. Jenny’s mum Joan has been our most mature sailor on board, at the age of 93 she is amazing and we had a great day out sailing on Nimrod. She is definitely the kind of person who never says never and I hope she has fond memories of her day with us on Nimrod. It was sad to leave them all but Sicily was calling.
Porto Chervo and the superyachts were very impressive but a bit too ostentatious for me. We didn’t dare sit down and have a drink anywhere!! I much prefer the small towns and bays with the crystal clear waters.
The plan was to do a long crossing to Tunisia then a short hop to Pantelleria and a short hop to Sicily but it didn’t work out like that. We were in a rolly anchorage in Pantellerie and Chris wasn’t happy with the holding so at 7pm he decided we needed to move, I had the tea in the oven but agreed it could wait and we would move. It was when he said the move wasn’t just along the coast but to Sicily and not the short hop as planned but 150 miles to get us to the South Coast owing to weather forecast for next few days that my face dropped!! It turned out for the best though and we even caught two Tuna on the way. I don’t know if I would want to go back to Tunisia after our experience of Kelibia but we have spoken to people since and they said it’s a very interesting place to visit if you go into the big Marinas. Like Chris said it seems to be a very poor country but I think they need to get their customs men and marina police sorted out or it will put boats off visiting.
We are now in Siracusa and there are more British boats here than we have seen all year, there are also Canadian, American, Dutch and Swedish, all heading to Ragusa for winter. It looks like it will be a very social winter again!! Siracusa is a beautiful town and if they had a safe marina it would be a good place to winter. The daily fish and vegetable market is amazing and really good value, 2kg peaches for 1 euro and 6 limes 50 cents. The big supermarkets are all within walking distance as well and a good laundry where they do a big load of washing for 3 euros, who needs yellow buckets!! The only downside is the water is not very nice for swimming as lots of boats in and out so my laps have had to go on hold for now!! We will head into Ragusa Marina on Monday 1st October to register and have a major clean up on the boat before we head back to Siracusa to meet our friends Jean and John middle of October for two more weeks sailing. Then it will be Marina life until next year. Apart from Chris having to sail me across to Malta in November to catch my flight home.